Tag Archives: summer in canada

Goodbye to summer in the Rockies

It’s now the start of October and a fluffy blanket of snow has tucked the mountain peaks to bed for the looming long and cold winter. The summer crowds are long gone and daily highs are now hovering around 10 degrees.

It’s the perfect time to sit back with a cuppa tea and reflect on what was one busy, adventurous and fulfilling couple of months. Join me in a recollection of events.

When I arrived back in Jasper in late July I wrote down a list of ten trips I wanted to do before summer was out, and blow me down I did them all!

With all my trips, and other trips going on in the meantime, there was always more to plan, organise or just jump aboard and go.

Given I was simultaneously working full time at the hostel there was no time to rest on a day off. My housemate and I pushed each other to do more and more, and on the rare occasion we found ourselves inside on a nice day we certainly heard about it from the other! It was great motivation and I can look back proud at everything I got done.

My Summer To Do List (in order of completion)

  1. Beat Donny’s time of 1:39 up Whistlers Mountain.     Check Aug 1 with 1:35.
  2. Get to Edith Cavell Meadows.                                        Check Aug 2.
  3. Berg Lake camping trip.                                                  Check Aug 6,7,8.
  4. Go whitewater rafting.                                                     Check Aug 19.
  5. Climb Mt Temple.                                                             Check Aug 25,26.
  6. Hike the Skyline trail in one day 44km.                         Check Sep 3.
  7. Climb Mt Hardisty.                                                            Check Sep 9.
  8. Climb Pyramid Mountain.                                                Check Sep 10,
  9. Tonquin Valley camping trip.                                          Check Sep 16,17,18.
  10. Maligne Lake canoe/camp trip.                                    Check Sep 30, Oct 1.

More trips not on my “list”:

  1. Grouse Grind, Vancouver.                                                Check July 25.
  2. Bald Hills trail.                                                                    Check Aug 13.
  3. Maligne Canyon.                                                                Check Aug 15.
  4. Sulphur Skyline trail.                                                         Check Aug 21.
  5. Sunrise kayak on Pyramid Lake.                                     Check Aug 24.
  6. Plain of Six Glaciers trail.                                                  Check Aug 25.
  7. Palisades Lookout.                                                            Check Aug 30.
  8. Slept on top of a mountain.                                             Check Aug 31.
  9. Climbed Mt Tekarra.                                                         Check Sep 3.
  10. Photographed a wedding.                                               Check Sep 28.
  11. Horseback riding                                                               Check Oct 6

h
Palisades Lookout – WOW! The two hour uphill slog on a bike was worth it.
That's me taking cover front left
Rafting! That’s me taking cover front left
sleep
Waking up on top of a mountain was both strange and very awesome.
Sulphur Skyline
Sulphur Skyline hike.
Photographing a wedding was a new experience for me
Photographing my first wedding was a great experience for me.
And horse riding today - end of summer staff event.
And horse riding today – our end of summer staff event.

To try and pick my favourite trips is hard as every one is so different and they are all great but nonetheless I devised a system that works. Are you ready for it?

To pick my top four I simply asked myself, “if I could only take home the memories from four trips, and all the rest would be forgotten, which ones would I choose?”

And that brought me to my top four…in no particular order.

Berg Lake, Mt Robson Provincial Park

An awesome three days and an exhausting 80km of backpacking with Ben around the tallest mountain in the Canadian Rockies, Mt Robson.

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Berg Lake was freezing!

Mt Temple, Banff National Park

A quick two day run down to Lake Louise with Donny, Arne, and Jakub to summit the giant Mt Temple.

d
Descending Mt Temple
d
Peyto Lake

The Skyline Trail, Jasper National Park

One monster of a day hike with Grayden, Laura, and Joel. 50km along the premier Skyline trail including two mountain summits along the way.

Up into alpine heights. Snow covered for most of the year, in summer a desert like landscape is unveiled.
The Skyline trail was captivating!

Maligne Lake canoe trip, Jasper National Park

The most recent big adventure, a two day canoe and camping trip with Jackie and Joel to the far end of the breathtaking Maligne Lake.

We're here already! Burning time in paradise.
A well earned break at Spirit Island, Maligne Lake.

Thanks so much to everyone who shared this memorable summer with me – the corner stones of a great trip are great people.

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Berg Lake trail and back in Jasper

I’m back in my second home, Jasper, and the mountains are a calling. I’ve sorted myself a job until mid October and right now summer is in full swing. There’s no time to waste! Let me explain…

Summer in the Canadian Rockies is oh so short when compared to seven months of snowy winter. Snow snow go away come again another day.

For people like me who want to walk along ridges and stand in places looking down on mountains, summer only lasts two and a half months. That’s it. Mid July until late September.

Let’s break it down. That’s 75 days. Factor in working five days a week and I’m left with 21 days off. Furthermore consider that one in three days are likely to have some form of precipitation that leaves just 14 days.

14 days of work free and snow free summer days. 14 days…

I’ve made a list of adventures for the summer and one of the big ticket items was a three day backpacking trip to Berg Lake. It’s a hidden gem behind Mount Robson – the tallest peak in the Canadian Rockies by a long shot at 3954m, a whopping 3100m above the visitor centre.

Mount Robson from the highway. It's almost always covered in clouds.
Mount Robson from the highway near the visitor centre. It’s almost always covered in clouds.
Interesting comparison. This was Robson on 21 Dec 2012 when I visited it.
Interesting comparison. This was Mount Robson on 21 Dec 2012 when I visited it.

Ben and I started our adventure hitch hiking from Jasper. We waited an hour which wasn’t too bad and arrived fresh at the visitor centre at midday.

Our destination was Adolphus campground, still a whopping 28km away with a heavy pack.

The 21km trail to Berg Lake is the most popular in the Rockies, so when we started out we were pleasantly surprised. We only saw a dozen others on the trail all day. We figured as it was the day after a long weekend we hit the jackpot. Ding ding ding.

The first 10km was nothing too exciting. Kinney Lake was the highlight, but pressing on and up the first part of the 800m days elevation gain we were engulfed inside the Valley of a Thousand Falls.

Valley of a Thousand Falls.
Valley of a Thousand Falls.

It’s an impressive place. A big wide valley with mountain peaks protruding in the distance and a fair few giant waterfalls cascading down the vertical walls. It reminded me of Yosemite even, and that’s saying something cause that place rocks.

The most awesome part though was witnessing a bizarre stream junction. One stream flowing with brown water and the other blue water. After intersecting there was a definite line separating the two shades for hundreds of metres.

Brown vs blue
Brown vs blue
The stream in the valley
The stream in the valley

Stretching the legs again the trail turned evil, presenting a steep grade that just spelled out lactic acid. This must have been round about kilometre 12 and over the following 3.5km we gained 450m. But it was worth it.

Up here we glimpsed a rather ferocious looking waterfall – Emperor Falls. I didn’t think too much of it until we branched off the main trail to check it out. Woahhhh!!!

Emperor Falls
Emperor Falls and Mount Robson behind

The endless power in this fall was tremendous. Constant, unrelently, loud. I have to say the most impressive waterfall I’ve experienced. It is a showcase of the extreme forces of nature.

What contributed to it’s impact was we could walk right up beside where the water was crashing down. On our hike out we even braved the tame looking mist (which is actually painfully strong) and stood beneath the edge of the fall. It was like being hailed on!

It really puts things in perspective
It really puts things in perspective. Nature rules.

We reached Berg Lake near sunset and it’s just like the postcard. Bliss.

Ben and I take it all in
Ben and I take it all in. Berg glacier on the left, Mist glacier on the right and mighty Mt Robson.

Camping out in Canada is different than in Australia.

Over here it’s all about securing your food away from a hungry bear’s grasp and definitely not keeping food inside your tent. Unless you want an uninvited guest at night. I slept within reach of bear spray to let my mind rest easy.

We cooked our three course meal of pasta, pasta, and rice well away from our tents and hoisted our food bag up a tree. Even at this height it’s a bit low but it’s the best we could do.

Lucky bears can't untie knots
Lucky bears can’t untie knots

It’s off putting to think a mighty bear might be roaming around me while I sleep but I was fine. Slept great after such an exhausting eight hour grind.

The second day we lightened our loads and hiked up another 800m higher and 25km round trip to Snowbird pass. It was really worth it.

This trail takes you right beside Robson glacier. It’s so close and gave me such an appreciation of the size of it, especially when compared to the tiny dots that were people.

See the people down by the blue pond bottom right...
See the people down by the blue pond bottom right…

On top of that you are presented with a 180 degree view of the Reef icefield upon reaching Snowbird Pass. It’s a great tough day hike, but take note that it’s only open from 1 July onwards.

At snowbird pass. The halfway point of our trip. "It's all down hill from here" says Ben.
At snowbird pass. The halfway point of our trip. “It’s all down hill from here” says Ben.
Ben checks out the view. Not bad, not bad.
Ben checks out the storm on the horizon. Not bad, not bad.

The last day we spent hiking back out with a good dose of time allocated to swimming in Berg Lake and Emperor Falls. We were so so grateful that the sun appeared after we awoke to mist.

There was no way I was jumping in a biting cold Berg Lake with the sun hiding, or the Falls for that matter.

Arrgghhh. The hailing waterfall.
Arrgghhh. The hailing waterfall.
I love this one. Ben just feeling the moment.
I love this one. Ben just feeling the moment.

I said to Ben as we were pacing along the shore feeling refreshed after our swim, “This is just how hiking in the Canadian Rockies looks in guidebooks”.

The sun was out, the glaciers shining, and the water was vivid.

There’s no doubt this is a premier trail and it’s popular for a reason. It presents the most glaciers I’ve seen in such close proximity, plus blue lakes, waterfalls, tall mountains and provides plenty of camping space. Just try to go mid week.