You know how you catch glimpses of pro surfers on the news, “that looks easy enough” you think – or at least I did. Well wasn’t I in for a bit of a shock.
No it’s not “easy enough”. What was I thinking? It’s not even “easy enough” to stay on your board while laying down paddling, let alone sitting up waiting for “the one”.
And standing up? Well forget it. It ain’t happening. Not for me and not now!
Do I sound frustrated? Not at one with those annoying things called “waves”? Well you’d be right.
But I’ll be back, don’t worry about that “wave”. I will stand on top of you and look down on you some day so be ready!
I guess surfing is like learning to do anything for the first time though. Like riding a bike, or skiing, or driving. It’s hard at first but in time it all becomes second nature and you think it’s “easy enough”.
I used to skateboard and picked up snowboarding pretty quick so I thought I might catch on in an hour…give me a longboard and I’ll be set. (Oh yeah I was set – fast forward to my first surf in Canada here)
Thanks for the day out Matt, next time we’ll get me going.